their trunks. The direction of the branches was exactly N. E. by N.,
and S. W. by S., and these natural vanes must indicate the prevailing
direction of the force of the trade-wind. The travelling had made so
little impression on the barren soil, that we here missed our track,
and took that to Fuentes. This we did not find out till we arrived
there; and we were afterwards glad of our mistake. Fuentes is a pretty
village, with a small stream; and everything appeared to prosper well,
excepting, indeed, that which ought to do so most--its inhabitants. The
black children, completely naked, and looking very wretched, were
carrying bundles of firewood half as big as their own bodies.
Near Fuentes we saw a large flock of guinea-fowl--probably fifty or
sixty in number. They were extremely wary, and could not be
approached. They avoided us, like partridges on a rainy day in
September, running with their heads cocked up; and if pursued, they
readily took to the wing.
The scenery of St. Domingo possesses a beauty totally unexpected, from
the prevalent gloomy character of the rest of the island. The village
is situated at the bottom of a valley, bounded by lofty and jagged
walls of stratified lava. The black rocks afford a most striking
contrast with the bright green vegetation, which follows the banks of a
little stream of clear water. It happened to be a grand feast-day, and
the village was full of people. On our return we overtook a party of
about twenty young black girls, dressed in excellent taste; their black
skins and snow-white linen being set off by coloured turbans and large
shawls. As soon as we approached near, they suddenly all turned round,
and covering the path with their shawls, sung with great energy a wild
song, beating time with their hands upon their legs. We threw them some
vintems, which were received with screams of laughter, and we left them
redoubling the noise of their song.
One morning the view was singularly clear; the distant mountains being
projected with the sharpest outline on a heavy bank of dark blue
clouds. Judging from the appearance, and from similar cases in
England, I supposed that the air was saturated with moisture. The
fact, however, turned out quite the contrary. The hygrometer gave a
difference of 29.6 degs., between the temperature of the air, and the
point at which dew was precipitated. This difference was nearly double
that which I had observed on the previous mornings. This unusual
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