some tern, struggling against a very strong breeze, whilst, where I
stood, the air was quite calm. Approaching close to the brink, where
the current seemed to be deflected upwards from the face of the cliff,
I stretched out my arm, and immediately felt the full force of the
wind: an invisible barrier, two yards in width, separated perfectly
calm air from a strong blast.
I so much enjoyed my rambles among the rocks and mountains of St.
Helena, that I felt almost sorry on the morning of the 14th to descend
to the town. Before noon I was on board, and the Beagle made sail.
On the 19th of July we reached Ascension. Those who have beheld a
volcanic island, situated under an arid climate, will at once be able
to picture to themselves the appearance of Ascension. They will
imagine smooth conical hills of a bright red colour, with their summits
generally truncated, rising separately out of a level surface of black
rugged lava. A principal mound in the centre of the island, seems the
father of the lesser cones. It is called Green Hill: its name being
taken from the faintest tinge of that colour, which at this time of the
year is barely perceptible from the anchorage. To complete the
desolate scene, the black rocks on the coast are lashed by a wild and
turbulent sea.
The settlement is near the beach; it consists of several houses and
barracks placed irregularly, but well built of white freestone. The
only inhabitants are marines, and some negroes liberated from
slave-ships, who are paid and victualled by government. There is not a
private person on the island. Many of the marines appeared well
contented with their situation; they think it better to serve their
one-and-twenty years on shore, let it be what it may, than in a ship;
in this choice, if I were a marine, I should most heartily agree.
The next morning I ascended Green Hill, 2840 feet high, and thence
walked across the island to the windward point. A good cart-road leads
from the coast-settlement to the houses, gardens, and fields, placed
near the summit of the central mountain. On the roadside there are
milestones, and likewise cisterns, where each thirsty passer-by can
drink some good water. Similar care is displayed in each part of the
establishment, and especially in the management of the springs, so that
a single drop of water may not be lost: indeed the whole island may be
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