women, and children. Looking at the New Zealander, one naturally
compares him with the Tahitian; both belonging to the same family of
mankind. The comparison, however, tells heavily against the New
Zealander. He may, perhaps be superior in energy, but in every other
respect his character is of a much lower order. One glance at their
respective expressions, brings conviction to the mind that one is a
savage, the other a civilized man. It would be vain to seek in the
whole of New Zealand a person with the face and mien of the old
Tahitian chief Utamme. No doubt the extraordinary manner in which
tattooing is here practised, gives a disagreeable expression to their
countenances. The complicated but symmetrical figures covering the
whole face, puzzle and mislead an unaccustomed eye: it is moreover
probable, that the deep incisions, by destroying the play of the
superficial muscles, give an air of rigid inflexibility. But, besides
this, there is a twinkling in the eye, which cannot indicate anything
but cunning and ferocity. Their figures are tall and bulky; but not
comparable in elegance with those of the working-classes in Tahiti.
But their persons and houses are filthily dirty and offensive: the idea
of washing either their bodies or their clothes never seems to enter
their heads. I saw a chief, who was wearing a shirt black and matted
with filth, and when asked how it came to be so dirty, he replied, with
surprise, "Do not you see it is an old one?" Some of the men have
shirts; but the common dress is one or two large blankets, generally
black with dirt, which are thrown over their shoulders in a very
inconvenient and awkward fashion. A few of the principal chiefs have
decent suits of English clothes; but these are only worn on great
occasions.
December 23rd.--At a place called Waimate, about fifteen miles from the
Bay of Islands, and midway between the eastern and western coasts, the
missionaries have purchased some land for agricultural purposes. I had
been introduced to the Rev. W. Williams, who, upon my expressing a
wish, invited me to pay him a visit there. Mr. Bushby, the British
resident, offered to take me in his boat by a creek, where I should see
a pretty waterfall, and by which means my walk would be shortened. He
likewise procured for me a guide.
Upon asking a neighbouring chief to recommend a man, the chief himself
offered to go; but his ignorance of the value of money was so complete,
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