November 20th.--In the morning we started early, and reached Matavai at
noon. On the road we met a large party of noble athletic men, going
for wild bananas. I found that the ship, on account of the difficulty
in watering, had moved to the harbour of Papawa, to which place I
immediately walked. This is a very pretty spot. The cove is
surrounded by reefs, and the water as smooth as in a lake. The
cultivated ground, with its beautiful productions, interspersed with
cottages, comes close down to the water's edge. From the varying
accounts which I had read before reaching these islands, I was very
anxious to form, from my own observation, a judgment of their moral
state,--although such judgment would necessarily be very imperfect.
First impressions at all times very much depend on one's previously
acquired ideas. My notions were drawn from Ellis's "Polynesian
Researches"--an admirable and most interesting work, but naturally
looking at everything under a favourable point of view, from Beechey's
Voyage; and from that of Kotzebue, which is strongly adverse to the
whole missionary system. He who compares these three accounts will, I
think, form a tolerably accurate conception of the present state of
Tahiti. One of my impressions which I took from the two last
authorities, was decidedly incorrect; viz., that the Tahitians had
become a gloomy race, and lived in fear of the missionaries. Of the
latter feeling I saw no trace, unless, indeed, fear and respect be
confounded under one name. Instead of discontent being a common
feeling, it would be difficult in Europe to pick out of a crowd half so
many merry and happy faces. The prohibition of the flute and dancing
is inveighed against as wrong and foolish;--the more than presbyterian
manner of keeping the sabbath is looked at in a similar light. On
these points I will not pretend to offer any opinion to men who have
resided as many years as I was days on the island.
On the whole, it appears to me that the morality and religion of the
inhabitants are highly creditable. There are many who attack, even
more acrimoniously than Kotzebue, both the missionaries, their system,
and the effects produced by it. Such reasoners never compare the
present state with that of the island only twenty years ago; nor even
with that of Europe at this day; but they compare it with the high
standard of Gospel perfection. They expect the missionaries to effect
that which the Apostles themselves failed to do. Inasmuch as the
condition of the people falls short of this high standard, blame is
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