pleasantly along at the rate of 150 or 160 miles a day before the
steady trade-wind. The temperature in this more central part of the
Pacific is higher than near the American shore. The thermometer in the
poop cabin, by night and day, ranged between 80 and 83 degs., which
feels very pleasant; but with one degree or two higher, the heat
becomes oppressive. We passed through the Low or Dangerous
Archipelago, and saw several of those most curious rings of coral land,
just rising above the water's edge, which have been called Lagoon
Islands. A long and brilliantly white beach is capped by a margin of
green vegetation; and the strip, looking either way, rapidly narrows
away in the distance, and sinks beneath the horizon From the mast-head
a wide expanse of smooth water can be seen within the ring. These low
hollow coral islands bear no proportion to the vast ocean out of which
they abruptly rise; and it seems wonderful, that such weak invaders are
not overwhelmed, by the all-powerful and never-tiring waves of that
great sea, miscalled the Pacific.
November 15th.--At daylight, Tahiti, an island which must for ever
remain classical to the voyager in the South Sea, was in view. At a
distance the appearance was not attractive. The luxuriant vegetation
of the lower part could not yet be seen, and as the clouds rolled past,
the wildest and most precipitous peaks showed themselves towards the
centre of the island. As soon as we anchored in Matavai Bay, we were
surrounded by canoes. This was our Sunday, but the Monday of Tahiti:
if the case had been reversed, we should not have received a single
visit; for the injunction not to launch a canoe on the sabbath is
rigidly obeyed. After dinner we landed to enjoy all the delights
produced by the first impressions of a new country, and that country
the charming Tahiti. A crowd of men, women, and children, was
collected on the memorable Point Venus, ready to receive us with
laughing, merry faces. They marshalled us towards the house of Mr.
Wilson, the missionary of the district, who met us on the road, and
gave us a very friendly reception. After sitting a very short time in
his house, we separated to walk about, but returned there in the
evening.
The land capable of cultivation, is scarcely in any part more than a
fringe of low alluvial soil, accumulated round the base of the
mountains, and protected from the waves of the sea by a coral reef,
which encircles the entire line of coast. Within the reef there is an
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