inhabitants Chepones. In scrambling through the beds, our hands were
very much scratched. I was amused by observing the precaution our
Indian guide took, in turning up his trousers, thinking that they were
more delicate than his own hard skin. This plant bears a fruit, in
shape like an artichoke, in which a number of seed-vessels are packed:
these contain a pleasant sweet pulp, here much esteemed. I saw at
Low's Harbour the Chilotans making chichi, or cider, with this fruit:
so true is it, as Humboldt remarks, that almost everywhere man finds
means of preparing some kind of beverage from the vegetable kingdom.
The savages, however, of Tierra del Fuego, and I believe of Australia,
have not advanced thus far in the arts.
The coast to the north of Punta Huantamo is exceedingly rugged and
broken, and is fronted by many breakers, on which the sea is eternally
roaring. Mr. King and myself were anxious to return, if it had been
possible, on foot along this coast; but even the Indians said it was
quite impracticable. We were told that men have crossed by striking
directly through the woods from Cucao to S. Carlos, but never by the
coast. On these expeditions, the Indians carry with them only roasted
corn, and of this they eat sparingly twice a day.
26th.--Re-embarking in the periagua, we returned across the lake, and
then mounted our horses. The whole of Chiloe took advantage of this
week of unusually fine weather, to clear the ground by burning. In
every direction volumes of smoke were curling upwards. Although the
inhabitants were so assiduous in setting fire to every part of the
wood, yet I did not see a single fire which they had succeeded in
making extensive. We dined with our friend the commandant, and did not
reach Castro till after dark. The next morning we started very early.
After having ridden for some time, we obtained from the brow of a steep
hill an extensive view (and it is a rare thing on this road) of the
great forest. Over the horizon of trees, the volcano of Corcovado, and
the great flat-topped one to the north, stood out in proud
pre-eminence: scarcely another peak in the long range showed its snowy
summit. I hope it will be long before I forget this farewell view of
the magnificent Cordillera fronting Chiloe. At night we bivouacked
under a cloudless sky, and the next morning reached S. Carlos. We
arrived on the right day, for before evening heavy rain commenced.
February 4th.--Sailed from Chiloe. During the last week I made several
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