were rapidly driven. The successive mountain ranges appeared like dim
shadows, and the setting sun cast on the woodland a yellow gleam, much
like that produced by the flame of spirits of wine. The water was
white with the flying spray, and the wind lulled and roared again
through the rigging: it was an ominous, sublime scene. During a few
minutes there was a bright rainbow, and it was curious to observe the
effect of the spray, which being carried along the surface of the
water, changed the ordinary semicircle into a circle--a band of
prismatic colours being continued, from both feet of the common arch
across the bay, close to the vessel's side: thus forming a distorted,
but very nearly entire ring.
We stayed here three days. The weather continued bad: but this did not
much signify, for the surface of the land in all these islands is all
but impassable. The coast is so very rugged that to attempt to walk in
that direction requires continued scrambling up and down over the sharp
rocks of mica-slate; and as for the woods, our faces, hands, and
shin-bones all bore witness to the maltreatment we received, in merely
attempting to penetrate their forbidden recesses.
December 18th.--We stood out to sea. On the 20th we bade farewell to
the south, and with a fair wind turned the ship's head northward. From
Cape Tres Montes we sailed pleasantly along the lofty weather-beaten
coast, which is remarkable for the bold outline of its hills, and the
thick covering of forest even on the almost precipitous flanks. The
next day a harbour was discovered, which on this dangerous coast might
be of great service to a distressed vessel. It can easily be
recognized by a hill 1600 feet high, which is even more perfectly
conical than the famous sugar-loaf at Rio de Janeiro. The next day,
after anchoring, I succeeded in reaching the summit of this hill. It
was a laborious undertaking, for the sides were so steep that in some
parts it was necessary to use the trees as ladders. There were also
several extensive brakes of the Fuchsia, covered with its beautiful
drooping flowers, but very difficult to crawl through. In these wild
countries it gives much delight to gain the summit of any mountain.
There is an indefinite expectation of seeing something very strange,
which, however often it may be balked, never failed with me to recur on
each successive attempt. Every one must know the feeling of triumph
and pride which a grand view from a height communicates to the mind. In
these little frequented countries there is also joined to it some
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