curiosity. They asked me, "Why do you not become a Christian--for our
religion is certain?" I assured them I was a sort of Christian; but
they would not hear of it--appealing to my own words, "Do not your
padres, your very bishops, marry?" The absurdity of a bishop having a
wife particularly struck them: they scarcely knew whether to be most
amused or horror-struck at such an enormity.
6th.--We proceeded due south, and slept at Rancagua. The road passed
over the level but narrow plain, bounded on one side by lofty hills,
and on the other by the Cordillera. The next day we turned up the
valley of the Rio Cachapual, in which the hot-baths of Cauquenes, long
celebrated for their medicinal properties, are situated. The
suspension bridges, in the less frequented parts, are generally taken
down during the winter when the rivers are low. Such was the case in
this valley, and we were therefore obliged to cross the stream on
horseback. This is rather disagreeable, for the foaming water, though
not deep, rushes so quickly over the bed of large rounded stones, that
one's head becomes quite confused, and it is difficult even to perceive
whether the horse is moving onward or standing still. In summer, when
the snow melts, the torrents are quite impassable; their strength and
fury are then extremely great, as might be plainly seen by the marks
which they had left. We reached the baths in the evening, and stayed
there five days, being confined the two last by heavy rain. The
buildings consist of a square of miserable little hovels, each with a
single table and bench. They are situated in a narrow deep valley just
without the central Cordillera. It is a quiet, solitary spot, with a
good deal of wild beauty.
The mineral springs of Cauquenes burst forth on a line of dislocation,
crossing a mass of stratified rock, the whole of which betrays the
action of heat. A considerable quantity of gas is continually escaping
from the same orifices with the water. Though the springs are only a
few yards apart, they have very different temperature; and this appears
to be the result of an unequal mixture of cold water: for those with
the lowest temperature have scarcely any mineral taste. After the great
earthquake of 1822 the springs ceased, and the water did not return for
nearly a year. They were also much affected by the earthquake of 1835;
the temperature being suddenly changed from 118 to 92 degs. [1] It
seems probable that mineral waters rising deep from the bowels of the
earth, would always be more deranged by subterranean disturbances than
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