IN THE end of May, 1834, we entered for a second time the eastern mouth
of the Strait of Magellan. The country on both sides of this part of
the Strait consists of nearly level plains, like those of Patagonia.
Cape Negro, a little within the second Narrows, may be considered as
the point where the land begins to assume the marked features of Tierra
del Fuego. On the east coast, south of the Strait, broken park-like
scenery in a like manner connects these two countries, which are
opposed to each other in almost every feature. It is truly surprising
to find in a space of twenty miles such a change in the landscape. If
we take a rather greater distance, as between Port Famine and Gregory
Bay, that is about sixty miles, the difference is still more wonderful.
At the former place, we have rounded mountains concealed by impervious
forests, which are drenched with the rain, brought by an endless
succession of gales; while at Cape Gregory, there is a clear and bright
blue sky over the dry and sterile plains. The atmospheric currents,
[1] although rapid, turbulent, and unconfined by any apparent limits,
yet seem to follow, like a river in its bed, a regularly determined
course.
During our previous visit (in January), we had an interview at Cape
Gregory with the famous so-called gigantic Patagonians, who gave us a
cordial reception. Their height appears greater than it really is,
from their large guanaco mantles, their long flowing hair, and general
figure: on an average, their height is about six feet, with some men
taller and only a few shorter; and the women are also tall; altogether
they are certainly the tallest race which we anywhere saw. In features
they strikingly resemble the more northern Indians whom I saw with
Rosas, but they have a wilder and more formidable appearance: their
faces were much painted with red and black, and one man was ringed and
dotted with white like a Fuegian. Captain Fitz Roy offered to take any
three of them on board, and all seemed determined to be of the three.
It was long before we could clear the boat; at last we got on board
with our three giants, who dined with the Captain, and behaved quite
like gentlemen, helping themselves with knives, forks, and spoons:
nothing was so much relished as sugar. This tribe has had so much
communication with sealers and whalers that most of the men can speak a
little English and Spanish; and they are half civilized, and
proportionally demoralized.
218