France, Spain, and England, they were left uninhabited. The government
of Buenos Ayres then sold them to a private individual, but likewise
used them, as old Spain had done before, for a penal settlement.
England claimed her right and seized them. The Englishman who was left
in charge of the flag was consequently murdered. A British officer was
next sent, unsupported by any power: and when we arrived, we found him
in charge of a population, of which rather more than half were runaway
rebels and murderers.
The theatre is worthy of the scenes acted on it. An undulating land,
with a desolate and wretched aspect, is everywhere covered by a peaty
soil and wiry grass, of one monotonous brown colour. Here and there a
peak or ridge of grey quartz rock breaks through the smooth surface
Every one has heard of the climate of these regions; it may be compared
to that which is experienced at the height of between one and two
thousand feet, on the mountains of North Wales; having however less
sunshine and less frost but more wind and rain. [4]
16th.--I will now describe a short excursion which made round a part of
this island. In the morning I started with six horses and two Gauchos:
the latter were capital men for the purpose, and well accustomed to
living on their own resources. The weather was very boisterous and
cold with heavy hail-storms. We got on, however, pretty well but,
except the geology, nothing could be less interesting than our day's
ride. The country is uniformly the same undulating moorland; the
surface being covered by light brown withered grass and a few very
small shrubs, all springing out of an elastic peaty soil. In the
valleys here and there might be seen a small flock of wild geese, and
everywhere the ground was so soft that the snipe were able to feed.
Besides these two birds there were few others. There is one main range
of hills, nearly two thousand feet in height, and composed of quartz
rock, the rugged and barren crests of which gave us some trouble to
cross. On the south side we came to the best country for wild cattle;
we met, however, no great number, for they had been lately much
harassed.
In the evening we came across a small herd. One of my companions, St.
Jago by name, soon separated a fat cow: he threw the bolas, and it
struck her legs, but failed in becoming entangled. Then dropping his
hat to mark the spot where the balls were left, while at full gallop,
178