point we ultimately reached, was scarcely diminished. It was generally
from three to four hundred yards broad, and in the middle about
seventeen feet deep. The rapidity of the current, which in its whole
course runs at the rate of from four to six knots an hour, is perhaps
its most remarkable feature. The water is of a fine blue colour, but
with a slight milky tinge, and not so transparent as at first sight
would have been expected. It flows over a bed of pebbles, like those
which compose the beach and the surrounding plains. It runs in a
winding course through a valley, which extends in a direct line
westward. This valley varies from five to ten miles in breadth; it is
bounded by step-formed terraces, which rise in most parts, one above
the other, to the height of five hundred feet, and have on the opposite
sides a remarkable correspondence.
April 19th.--Against so strong a current it was, of course, quite
impossible to row or sail: consequently the three boats were fastened
together head and stern, two hands left in each, and the rest came on
shore to track. As the general arrangements made by Captain Fitz Roy
were very good for facilitating the work of all, and as all had a share
in it, I will describe the system. The party including every one, was
divided into two spells, each of which hauled at the tracking line
alternately for an hour and a half. The officers of each boat lived
with, ate the same food, and slept in the same tent with their crew, so
that each boat was quite independent of the others. After sunset the
first level spot where any bushes were growing, was chosen for our
night's lodging. Each of the crew took it in turns to be cook.
Immediately the boat was hauled up, the cook made his fire; two others
pitched the tent; the coxswain handed the things out of the boat; the
rest carried them up to the tents and collected firewood. By this
order, in half an hour everything was ready for the night. A watch of
two men and an officer was always kept, whose duty it was to look after
the boats, keep up the fire, and guard against Indians. Each in the
party had his one hour every night.
During this day we tracked but a short distance, for there were many
islets, covered by thorny bushes, and the channels between them were
shallow.
April 20th.--We passed the islands and set to work. Our regular day's
march, although it was hard enough, carried us on an average only ten
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