ladies in any other part of the world wear such large combs?" I
solemnly assured him that they did not. They were absolutely
delighted. The captain exclaimed, "Look there! a man who has seen half
the world says it is the case; we always thought so, but now we know
it." My excellent judgment in combs and beauty procured me a most
hospitable reception; the captain forced me to take his bed, and he
would sleep on his recado.
21st.--Started at sunrise, and rode slowly during the whole day. The
geological nature of this part of the province was different from the
rest, and closely resembled that of the Pampas. In consequence, there
were immense beds of the thistle, as well as of the cardoon: the whole
country, indeed, may be called one great bed of these plants. The two
sorts grow separate, each plant in company with its own kind. The
cardoon is as high as a horse's back, but the Pampas thistle is often
higher than the crown of the rider's head. To leave the road for a
yard is out of the question; and the road itself is partly, and in some
cases entirely closed. Pasture, of course there is none; if cattle or
horses once enter the bed, they are for the time completely lost. Hence
it is very hazardous to attempt to drive cattle at this season of the
year; for when jaded enough to face the thistles, they rush among them,
and are seen no more. In these districts there are very few estancias,
and these few are situated in the neighbourhood of damp valleys, where
fortunately neither of these overwhelming plants can exist. As night
came on before we arrived at our journey's end, we slept at a miserable
little hovel inhabited by the poorest people. The extreme though
rather formal courtesy of our host and hostess, considering their grade
of life, was quite delightful.
November 22nd.--Arrived at an estancia on the Berquelo belonging to a
very hospitable Englishman, to whom I had a letter of introduction from
my friend Mr. Lumb. I stayed here three days. One morning I rode with
my host to the Sierra del Pedro Flaco, about twenty miles up the Rio
Negro. Nearly the whole country was covered with good though coarse
grass, which was as high as a horse's belly; yet there were square
leagues without a single head of cattle. The province of Banda
Oriental, if well stocked, would support an astonishing number of
animals, at present the annual export of hides from Monte Video amounts
to three hundred thousand; and the home consumption, from waste, is
very considerable. An "estanciero" told me that he often had to send
140