the roof had, was to condense it into larger drops. They had nothing
to eat excepting what they could catch, such as ostriches, deer,
armadilloes, etc., and their only fuel was the dry stalks of a small
plant, somewhat resembling an aloe. The sole luxury which these men
enjoyed was smoking the little paper cigars, and sucking mate. I used
to think that the carrion vultures, man's constant attendants on these
dreary plains, while seated on the little neighbouring cliffs seemed by
their very patience to say, "Ah! when the Indians come we shall have a
feast."
In the morning we all sallied forth to hunt, and although we had not
much success, there were some animated chases. Soon after starting the
party separated, and so arranged their plans, that at a certain time of
the day (in guessing which they show much skill) they should all meet
from different points of the compass on a plain piece of ground, and
thus drive together the wild animals. One day I went out hunting at
Bahia Blanca, but the men there merely rode in a crescent, each being
about a quarter of a mile apart from the other. A fine male ostrich
being turned by the headmost riders, tried to escape on one side. The
Gauchos pursued at a reckless pace, twisting their horses about with
the most admirable command, and each man whirling the balls round his
head. At length the foremost threw them, revolving through the air: in
an instant the ostrich rolled over and over, its legs fairly lashed
together by the thong. The plains abound with three kinds of partridge,
[3] two of which are as large as hen pheasants. Their destroyer, a
small and pretty fox, was also singularly numerous; in the course of
the day we could not have seen less than forty or fifty. They were
generally near their earths, but the dogs killed one. When we returned
to the posta, we found two of the party returned who had been hunting
by themselves. They had killed a puma, and had found an ostrich's nest
with twenty-seven eggs in it. Each of these is said to equal in weight
eleven hen's eggs; so that we obtained from this one nest as much food
as 297 hen's eggs would have given.
September 14th.--As the soldiers belonging to the next posta meant to
return, and we should together make a party of five, and all armed, I
determined not to wait for the expected troops. My host, the
lieutenant, pressed me much to stop. As he had been very obliging--not
only providing me with food, but lending me his private horses--I
wanted to make him some remuneration. I asked my guide whether I might
107